WHERE TO NEXT?
HIDDEN CANADA: 2025 EDITION
PUBLISHED MAY 13, 2025
The eighth edition of The Globe’s annual travel guide celebrates Canadian wanderlust with 10 new destinations.
BEAR RIVER,
NOVA SCOTIA
BY VANESSA CHIASSON SPECIAL TO THE GLOBE AND MAIL
At low tide, visitors have a great view of the town’s colourful buildings perched atop wooden stilts.DAVE AND SKY/TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA
There are no bears in Bear River, N.S. The community’s name is likely a misinterpretation of Louis Hébert’s name. Hébert, a French explorer and apothecary, wintered alongside this tidal river with Samuel de Champlain (the founder of Quebec City) in the 17th century. Others attribute the moniker to Simon Imbert, another Champlain contemporary. What is certain is that Hébert left his mark on the area. He’s credited with planting Canada’s first grapevines here in 1611. Little did he realize that, more than 400 years later, another pharmacist would continue what he started.
Enter pharmacist-turned-winemaker Susan Wong and her husband Darren Carey, who grow 12 grape varieties at Bear River Vineyards.
Though I grew up in Nova Scotia, I had never visited this history-filled hamlet that’s just a 15-minute drive from Digby, the gateway to the Bay of Fundy. I thought I had a firm grasp on the province’s wines too. Nova Scotia is famous for its distinctive white wines, giving rise to North America’s first appellation: Tidal Bay. Nova Scotian reds, however, usually don’t hit anyone’s radar – including mine, until I tried Bear River Vineyards’ Emboldened red wine. A blend of Baco Noir and Maréchal Foch, two cold hardy grapes that can handle the harshest winters, the combination is smooth, spicy and – dare I say it – even a little bit sexy.
Bear River Vineyards, run by Susan Wong and her husband Darren Carey, has the only gravity-fed wine process east of Ontario.JODY ROBBINS/TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA
While her background as a scientist is helpful, there’s more to Wong’s work than formulas and equations. “Winemaking is part science, but also a big part art and a large part magic,” she said.
The Bear River tasting room is a 4.5-storey wood and stone hay barn from 1883. You might spy some interesting odds and ends inside, including unusual door knockers, a repurposed bank vault and dairy vats that will never fit out the front door. This gorgeous hillside structure also doubles as a winemaking facility, and Bear River Vineyards has the only gravity-fed wine process east of Ontario. Something about that feels poetic. The wine has its own rhythm and ebbs and flows, just like the nearby tides.
As impressive as the tasting room is, you’ll want to enjoy your drink outside to enjoy the view. It’s easy to see why the region has been nicknamed Nova Scotia’s “Little Switzerland.” There’s nothing that resembles the Alps, but the vibrant green hills, old farm buildings and fresh air are familiar.
Cross the river for picturesque views of the town.DAVE AND SKY/TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA
Among the few small shops in the village is Sissiboo Coffee Roaster, a cafe and gallery.ROVE PRODUCTIONS/TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA
You’d be forgiven for wanting to spend your entire visit at the vineyard but Bear River village is not to be missed. You’ll find cute cafes and interesting galleries, many of which are perched on spindly yet strong wooden legs. When your next-door neighbour is the Bay of Fundy, home to the highest tides in the world, you get creative with your building plans. Visitors should swing around the corner to the parking lot next to the Bear River Fire Department to catch a great view of the stilt-buildings.
As a Bluenoser, I thought I knew everything Nova Scotia had to offer, but I now appreciate what drew early explorers including Louis Hébert and modern adventurers like Susan Wong to put down roots in every sense of the word. Bear River is a tiny spot that offers something different, delightful and delicious.
Full article can be found here